Quilt school: How to hand piece patchwork

How to hand piece patchwork

Welcome to a new term here at Quilt School! We’ve got some great techniques lined up to share with you in the months to come as the latest in our online series of free tutorials. Let’s get started with oh-so-soothing hand piecing…

Whether you’re looking for a refresher or you’re new to quilting and testing out new skills, we’ve created this Quilt School series is for you. In this post, our in-house tech expert Sarah Griffiths takes you through the basics of hand piecing – a handy technique for when you’re on the go and the perfect excuse to enjoy a spot of hand stitching after a long day!

Let’s go! Your step-by-step guide to hand piecing

Step one: Cut a card or plastic template for each type of piece in your pattern, at full size with no seam allowances. If you have mirror-image pieces, you can make one template and label one side. Use your templates to trace the pieces onto fabric, using a fine pencil.

Cut out each piece, adding 14in seam allowances. Cutting the seam allowances exactly makes sewing the pieces together a lot easier. You can eyeball the seams, but you’ll have to be more careful checking your sewing lines later on.

How to hand piece patchwork

Step two: Start with two pieces right sides together (RST), pinned in place. It’s a good idea to pin at the beginning and end of the seam first. For short seams, these two pins will be enough, but you may want to add more in between for longer seams. Bring your needle up on the marked line, about 18in from the start of the seam. Make sure your needle is going through the line on the back and the front, especially if you didn’t cut exact 14in seams around your pieces. Work two backstitches on top of each other.

How to hand piece patchwork step 2

Step three: Hold your fabric pieces in both hands, so your thumbs are on top. Rock the fabric up and down to pick up three or four stitches on your needle before pulling through. Your needle should be flat against the fabric. Keep an eye on the other side to ensure you’re working along the line. Work a backstitch every 2in and finish at the end of the line with a double backstitch, knotting off and trimming your thread. Don’t stitch into the seam line or press your seams until you finish your block.

How to hand piece patchwork step 3

Step four: To stitch a Y-seam, stitch the first seam and backstitch at the end as normal, but don’t cut the thread. Pin the second seam in place (a). Push the needle through to the back (b), then through the back seam allowance (c). Bring the needle up at the beginning of the new seam (d) and sew together as normal.

How to hand piece patchwork step 4

Step five: Work smaller blocks first, then add larger pieces to join up blocks. Once finished, press the entire block. Press all seams to one side, which will help to protect the more delicate line of hand stitching. Also, since you haven’t sewn into the seam allowances, it will be easy to nest the seams, as we’ve done on this four-patch block.

How to hand piece patchwork step 5

Designing a block

You can easily adapt existing patterns, or make your own blocks for hand piecing. Make thumbnail sketches of your ideas first. Think about how you want to break up a block to make it easier for sewing. To start with, stick to shapes you’re familiar with before using other ones. When you’ve decided on a design, make up a full-size drawing of how you want the finished block to look.

How to hand piece patchwork step 9

You can use quilt rulers and graph paper, or a computer program to print out your design. Then use your full-size design to make the template pieces. Decide what order to sew your pieces in – sometimes it’s best to work from the centre out (for hexagonal or circular designs), sometimes it’s best to work in rows (more like traditional piecing). Try piecing smaller sections first and then joining them together.

Stock up on these handy supplies

  • Commercial templates: There are a variety of hand-piecing templates available to buy, if you don’t want to make your own. These will come in various shapes, with a small hole at each corner of the piece for marking seam allowances. Simply cut around the template and mark the piece through each of the holes with a fine pencil. Then use a ruler to join each mark and create your stitching lines.
  • Equipment: Piecing needles These needles are thin, with the eye stamped into the shank, so it’s not larger than the rest of the needle. A no 9 is the standard size for hand piecing. If you’re not comfortable working with this smaller needle, start with the smallest size you do feel comfortable with and drop down as you get a better handle on the technique.
  • Add-A-Quarter ruler: This handy little tool has a 14in lip for adding seam allowances around your templates quickly and consistently. It also provides a straight edge for a rotary cutter. Once you’ve used an add-a-quarter ruler, you’ll never want to be without one again!
  • Top up your stash: over at our sister site, Sewing Quarter: www.sewingquarter.com

Try it: How to sew a pastel piecing patchwork cushion

Go for a blend of on-trend soft pastel colours to warm up your home!

Hand pieced patchwork cushion

You will need

Finished Size

  • 14in square


  • Add seam allowances around each template piece.

How to hand piece a patchwork cushionCutting out

Step one: Cut out the pieces for the block, referring to the Layout diagram (below) and using our Cushion Shape Templates PDF, as outlined in step one of our Hand Piecing guide above. The template piece numbers correspond with those in the Layout diagram. For piece No 2, cut one with template right side up, then flip over to cut a second.

Step two: Also cut two (2) 1412in x 112in in green, two (2) 1412in x 112in in white and one (1) 1412in x 234in in blue.

Assembling the block

Step three: Sew the No 1 triangle pieces together first, alternating white and pink. Then add a No 2 piece to each end (Fig 1).

Step four: Sew the squares into pairs, then sew the pairs together to make four-patch blocks. Add the large triangles, then sew the triangle/square units together (Fig 2). Then add the small triangles to the ends. Line up the rows and sew together to finish the cushion top. Press all seams.

Quilting & finishing

Step five: Baste the block to the batting and quilt as desired.

Step six: Attach one backing piece to one side of the zip. Press away from the zip and topstitch in place. Attach the second piece to the other side of the zip. Press this piece up, just below the line of topstitching, so the fold is covering the zip. Open the zip halfway and then topstitch it in place, as shown in Fig 3, to enclose the zip.

Step seven: Trim your backing to 1412in square. Place the backing right sides together with the cushion top and stitch in place around the edges. Trim the corners and turn right side out through the opening in the zip. Insert a cushion pad to finish.

patchwork cushion layout diagram

Layout diagram